Choosing the Best Pet Turf (What Pet Owners Should Look For)
Before pet turf installation, the first step is to choose the best pet turf for your beloved pet. Not all artificial grass is made for pets. Choosing the wrong one often leads to odor issues, matting, or drainage problems.
Here’s what pet owners should prioritize:
1. Drainage Rate
Dogs urinate frequently, so fast drainage is non-negotiable. Look for turf with a minimum drainage rate of 250–300 inches per hour and perforated or fully permeable backing.
2. Odor Control Features
With frequent urination from your pets, a bad odor comes naturally. As dogs and puppies tend to pee in the same place they peed before, it can cause a really bad ammonia smell. Check yourself a pet turf that comes with an ammonia odor control feature.
3. Blade Durability & Density
High-energy dogs can flatten or damage grass blades. For best results, you should choose turf with a higher stitch count, shorter pile height (¾”–1¼”).
4. Pet-Safe Materials
Your pet is beloved to you, so it is necessary to confirm that the pet turf you’re installing for your pet is safe for them. It must be lead-free, non-toxic, and heat-resistant to some extent.
Step-by-Step Pet Turf Installation Guide
Step 1: Site Preparation Clear & Level the Ground
- Remove existing surface: Dig out existing grass, weeds, roots, rocks, or debris. Use a shovel or sod-cutter if needed. The goal is bare soil.
- Level and grade: Smooth the soil surface; check for uneven patches. If needed, add or remove soil to create a uniform base.
- Ensure a slight slope (optional but recommended): If possible, slope the base 1–2% away from structures (walls, fences, home) to help drainage, especially important for pet urine and rain.
- Compact the soil (or subsoil): Before adding base material, compact lightly to create a firm “bed.” This helps avoid later shifting.
Step 2: Build a Stable, Drain-Friendly Base Layer
A proper base is perhaps the most crucial step — especially for pet areas where urine or water may collect.
- Spread 3–4 inches (or as recommended) of crushed stone, gravel, or decomposed granite across the cleared surface.
- Rake the material evenly, preserving the gentle slope for drainage (if applied earlier).
- Use a plate compactor (or hand tamper for small spaces) to compact the base thoroughly. This ensures a firm, stable foundation so the turf won’t sag or shift.
- (Optional, depending on soil/drainage) Lay a weed barrier over the compacted base. But ensure it remains permeable to let water/drainage flow through.
Step 3: Lay the Pet Turf Rolling, Cutting & Positioning
- Unroll the turf over the prepared base. If possible, let it relax in sunlight for 15–30 minutes. This reduces stiffness and makes cutting and handling easier.
- Align the turf so that the blade direction is consistent. This gives a natural, uniform look, especially noticeable if multiple rolls are used.
- Trim turf carefully around edges, fences, obstacles, or curved boundaries with a utility knife. Leave a small margin near walls/fences to allow expansion or drainage.
Step 4: Seam & Secure the Turf (Edges, Joints, Perimeter)
If your area requires multiple turf pieces or has an irregular shape:
- Use seam tape and adhesive to join pieces. Align edges carefully so turf blades match direction, and press seams firmly to avoid gaps or lumps.
- Stretch the turf slightly as you secure it so it lies flat and taut (but don’t over-stretch, avoid deforming the backing).
- Secure turf with landscape staples or turf nails along the perimeter, spaced about 6–8 inches apart. For high-traffic or pet-heavy areas, consider additional staple/nail lines. But you must be careful not to drive staples too deeply (that can distort the turf).
- If local climate or soil makes staking difficult (e.g., hard soil, concrete base), alternatives such as a nail-less framing system or perimeter adhesive may be used (depending on manufacturer recommendations).
Step 5: Add Infill (Highly Recommended for Pet Turf) + Final Grooming
- Spread pet-safe infill (e.g., zeolite, Envirofill, or another recommended product) across the entire turf surface. Infill stabilizes the turf, helps blades stand upright, and improves drainage and odor control.
- Use a stiff broom, turf rake, or power brush to work the infill down between the blades, and then brush the grass so the fibers stand upright evenly. This gives a natural look and helps the turf perform properly.
- (Optional but helpful) Rinse the turf lightly with water to settle the infill and clear any debris also helps test drainage.
Step 6: Final Checks & Pet-Specific Considerations
Before letting your pets use the turf, check:
- Turf lies flat, no wrinkles or lumps; seams secure, edges well anchored.
- Drainage works if you sprinkle water; it should drain quickly without pooling.
- Infill is evenly distributed, fibers stand upright, and the turf surface feels even underfoot.
- No exposed staples or sharp edges that could harm pets.
For pet use, you might also:
Pick a pet-safe infill (avoid rubber crumb infill that heats up or contains chemicals) for better hygiene and cooling.
How to choose pet-safe infill
Here is a complete chart with pros and cons of each, so you can purchase the best and safest infill for your pet turf installation.
Infill Type | Pros (Good for Pets) | Cons / Things to Watch |
Zeolite (natural mineral) | Excellent odor control neutralizes ammonia from urine; non-toxic; helps keep turf cooler; generally pet-safe and gentle on paws. | Usually more expensive than simple sand, as a mineral, it doesn’t give much cushioning or shock absorption. |
Envirofill / acrylic-coated sand (or similar coated sand infill) | Antimicrobial, resists bacteria/mold, dust-free, provides stable drainage, helps keep turf fibers upright, more durable than raw sand. | Slightly higher cost; not as natural-feeling as organic infill; may absorb some heat depending on coating and climate. |
Organic infills (e.g., cork, coconut husk, walnut-shell, other bio-options) | Biodegradable, eco-friendly, naturally non-toxic, tends to stay cooler, good for pet- and child-safe environments. | Often more expensive; may degrade or compact over time; might need more frequent topping-up / maintenance. |
Silica / regular sand (basic sand infill) | Affordable, widely available, good drainage, and basic turf support. | Poor odor control; no antimicrobial or cooling features; can compact over time and may trap urine odor. |
Avoid or be cautious with rubber/crumb-rubber/EPDM infill | Provides shock absorption and cushioning (more common in sports turf). | Retains heat, can get very hot in sunny climates; may harbor odors or chemicals — not ideal for pet turf. |
- Choose higher-density turf (tighter fibers, shorter pile) that resists matting and wear from claws/paws.
Maintenance of Pet Turf
- Remove solid waste daily; rinse or hose off urine areas regularly so odor/infection doesn’t build up.
- Periodically (monthly or as needed), power-brush the turf to lift blades and redistribute infill. You can use a stiff broom to brush the turf in the direction of the blade. This prevents matting and is essential for maintenance.
- Consider occasional deep rinsing and, if needed, pet-safe disinfectant/enzyme cleaner (especially in hot or humid weather).
- Inspect seams and edges annually; re-secure or re-nail if any loosening occurs.
How Does Pet Turf Installation Differ From Regular Artificial Grass Installation?
Pet turf and regular turf may look similar, but installation is noticeably different because of odor, drainage, and durability requirements.
Material Differences
- Backing: Pet turf uses a permeable or multi-hole drainage backing.
- Infill: Instead of rubber or silica sand, installers use pet-safe, odor-absorbing infill (typically zeolite or Envirofill). This is a game-changer if we dare to say so, because pet turf is designed in such a way to reduce the hassle of odor and cleaning.
- Blade Density: Higher density prevents matting and damage.
Installation Process Differences
- Thicker sub-base: Dogs urinate in the same spots repeatedly. A deeper, permeable sub-base prevents odor build-up. On the other hand, regular turf doesn’t have this thick sub-base; as a result, the urine of dogs or cats doesn’t absorb.
- Reinforced seams: Prevents dogs from lifting or chewing edges.
- Pet-friendly perimeter securing: Nails and staples are placed strategically to prevent tugging.
Maintenance Differences
Pet turf is installed in such a way that it can withstand more frequent rinsing. A pet-friendly turf may need occasional enzyme cleaner and regular brushing. All of these a regular artificial grass cannot handle.
How to Install Pet Turf on Concrete
If you’re installing pet turf over concrete, the good news is that it’s one of the easiest and most stable bases to work with. The key is proper drainage, secure adhesion, and choosing materials that can withstand everyday pet use. Below is a clear, step-by-step breakdown to help you get it right the first time.
1. Clean and Prep the Concrete Surface
A clean surface helps adhesives bond properly and keeps odors from getting trapped later.
- Sweep away dirt, dust, and debris.
- Degrease any oily patches.
- Rinse and let completely dry.
- Repair cracks or divots with concrete patch if needed.
2. Install Drainage Layer (Must for concrete)
Unlike soil, concrete doesn’t absorb moisture, so you need a layer that lets urine and rinse water escape. The perfect solution would be to use a perforated drainage underlayment or drainage mat (⅜” to ½” thick). This will prevent puddling on concrete, improve the drainage ability. Also, there is a lesser chance of urine odor buildup.
3. Continue with the same process
Unroll the turf and let it acclimate for at least an hour. Then cut it to size before gluing anything down. Continue with the same process described above.
Common Problems of Pet Turf Installation
1. Turf Smells Like Urine
Sometimes the pet turf may smell strongly of urine or ammonia. It is likely due to poor drainage or a lack of zeolite infill. You can incorporate enzyme cleaners and use proper infill during installation to save your nose.
2. Heat Buildup
Just like any other substance, turf tends to get hot when exposed to too much heat or sunlight. This can be a problem for our little friends, as they don’t know how to save themself from the heat. The solution here is to use cooling infill, shade, or periodic rinsing.
There are various types of cooling infill available, like HydroChill. Even zeolite has cooling infill properties. So consult with your local landscaper regarding this.
3. Dog Digging
Young dogs, especially puppies, love digging. It reinforces seams and edges. In this way, your pet turf may not last that long. What you can do is choose dense, durable turf. These are hard to dig, and dogs can chew them up without breaking.
4. Water Pooling
Sub-base may be too shallow or compacted incorrectly, causing water pooling. Hire an expert landscaper from your local company to create the perfect base first.
Conclusion
Pet turf is necessary for every pet owner who wants a safe outdoor space for their pets. If pet turf installation seems too much to handle for you, you can call Glscapes. We offer every type of turf and sod installation, including pet turf installation in the SF Bay Area.
FAQs
Q1: Does pet turf smell?
Ans: Not when installed with proper drainage and odor-control infill.
Q2: Can dogs dig through pet turf?
Ans: High-quality turf with a compacted base makes digging nearly impossible.
Q3: Is pet turf safe for puppies?
Ans: Yes, it’s hygienic, soft, and durable for training.
Q4: How long does pet turf last with active dogs?
Ans: Most systems last 10–15 years with proper care.
Q5: Does artificial turf get hot?
Ans: Yes, but cooling infill, shade, and rinsing help maintain safe temperatures.